Italian Invasion
Burrata Pugliese—with butternut squash and sage pureé, walnut pesto, pumpkin seeds, and herbs—at Aperitivo.
A trio of restaurants in the State Street corridor is offering a more authentic take on Italian food
Written by Erik Torkells | Photography by Sara Prince
“I don’t try to get big names or high scores,” says Andrea Girardello of Aperitivo’s wine list. “It’s whatever I would drink.”
Our journey begins in the north—of Italy, that is—at APERITIVO, where chef Brian Dodero and Milan-bred Andrea Girardello have recreated their version of the aperitivo. It’s “a place catering to locals, especially in Milan, where people can just have a glass of wine and go home, if they like,” explains Girardello. Enthusiasm for Dodero’s inventive cooking, however, has shifted the emphasis from wine bar to restaurant. He imports as much as possible from Italy—including the standout burrata, marinated artichokes, and gelato. Drinks remain an important part of the equation, with an ever-changing lineup of spritzes made with vermouths rarely seen in these parts, and an all-Italian wine list. “I don’t try to get big names or high scores,” says Girardello. “It’s whatever I would drink.” And the take-home pasta-and-wine club, started during the pandemic, is still going strong; every week, a different region—including lesser-known ones like Alto Adige and Le Marche—gets a turn in the spotlight. 7 W. Haley St., Santa Barbara, 805-869-2937, aperitivosb.com.
Founded in Naples in 1870, L’ANTICA PIZZERIA DA MICHELE has begun an aggressive stateside expansion, with an outpost in Los Angeles, two in the works in New York City and Long Beach, and a brand-new one in the former Embermill space on State Street. Unlike the Naples original, which features just two pizzas (margherita and marinara), these are full restaurants, with fresh pastas, entrées, and more. The star is still wood-fired pizza, of course, and the goal is to make it exactly as it is done across the Atlantic. “We import everything from Italy—flour, cheese, everything,” says head chef Michele Rubini. “Even our main pizzaiolo is from Naples!” As at Aperitivo, the wine list is entirely Italian. 1031 State St., Santa Barbara, 805-770-8055, damicheleusa.com.
In the shadow of The Granada Theatre, Alberto and Elaine Morello of the Olio family of restaurants, are running the show at BEDDA MIA for an anonymous Roman owner. “Alberto was born and raised in Sicily,” says Elaine. “We got married there in 1993, and we try to go back every year. This was his chance to do a completely Sicilian menu.” That means lots of seafood and classic Sicilian ingredients, such as sliced smoked tuna with fennel, orange, and Castelvetrano olives; tagliolini with cuttlefish and squid ink; and an off-menu dish of pasta tossed inside a giant Pecorino rind. When at Bedda Mia, do as the Sicilians do and finish with a passito from Trapani or a malvasia from Messina. Saluti! 1218 State St., Santa Barbara, 805-770-8777, beddamiasantabarbara.com.
